Walk along Twin Creek Germantown Dam area

Went to the dam to see if anything was biting. As I walked down by the creek I noticed movement and saw that there were crawdads everywhere.

Also here is the video from the day along the creek by the dam

This is only my second video using the Polaroid Cube so be patience as I learn what it does

Start of 2016 Fishing Season

As we goodbye to the 2015 Fishing Season we say hello to many many month of warm weather fishing.

We here at TCFF had a wonderful 2015 season with many of our members catching several fish. We also welcomed several new members.

I want to thank everyone who has made TCFF the success it is.

Please continue to email me your photos so I can place them online to share with our friends

If you have photos to share,want to ask a question or just want to Join TCFF email me at bronzeback60@gmail.com

Again thanks and see you on the waters

Dressing for Kayaking

Dressing for Kayaking

Warm Weather & Water
If you live in a hot part of the world that has warm water, dressing for kayaking is simple. Your biggest challenge will be staying cool, hydrated, and protected from the sun, and this should be something that you're used to doing. The most simple solution involves using sunscreen and wearing a hat. Sunglasses are also helpful because the glare off the water can be blinding, and you'll want to use some type of retainer strap so you don't lose them. Of course the best way to protect yourself from the sun is to cover up, so you might want to wear a light long-sleeved shirt. Below the waist, surf shorts and water shoes or sandal like Tevas work great.

Warm Weather & Cold Water
Dressing for cold water is far more difficult, especially when the air is warm. Even on the hottest days, if you find yourself swimming, the cold water can suck the heat out of your body at a surprising speed. If you're paddling a sit-on-top kayak, you have to expect that you're lower body is going to be wet, whereas a sit inside kayak will protect you a lot more from both the wind and the water. On the other hand, if you flip when paddling a sit-on-top kayak, you can just climb back on the boat. But if you flip a sit-inside, it will take you a lot longer to get back on board, which means you'll spend more time in the cold water.
Close to Shore vs. Off Shore
Of course the best strategy is to avoid capsizing altogether, and this is easy to do in a rec kayak, as long as you stay in areas that are protected from heavy wind and waves. On the other hand, if you're going to paddle a narrow sea kayak in cold water, you should take professional instruction and learn the different capsize recovery techniques.
Whatever boat you're paddling, it only makes sense that you stay close to shore, so that if you do flip, you have the option of just swimming to shore, while your buddies gather your equipment.
If you're going to be paddling in more committing areas, where you won't be able to get to shore very often, it's important to choose the right clothing. You want to be able to wear something that will keep you warm if you get wet, but that you won't overheat in when you're paddling. A neoprene Farmer John wet suit works well for this purpose, because it insulates when it's wet, and doesn't get in the way while you're paddling.
Cold Air & Cold Water
When both the water and air temperature are cold, you have to be aware of the threat of hypothermia and understand that paddling in these types of conditions isn't for everyone. But if you are going to hit the water, you need to use clothing that will keep you warm, even when they are wet.
• Fabric
Synthetic fabric like fleece, neoprene, and polypropylene are good for this reason, and it's best to use a couple of thinner layers instead of one thick layer. Wool also works well although it's slow to dry and heavy when it's wet. Cotton is one of the all-time worst materials to wear when it's cold. Cotton actually draws heat from your body when it's wet.
• Paddling Tops/Bottoms
Over top, you'll want to have an outer shell that keeps the wind off your body. A waterproof nylon jacket and pants will do the trick, but at you local outdoor or paddling shop, you'll find paddling tops and paddling bottoms that are designed specifically for the purpose. On you feet, neoprene booties and socks will help keep your toes warm.
• Dry Suits
The ultimate protection against the cold, though, is the dry suit. A dry suit uses latex gaskets at the ankle, wrists, and at the neck, which keeps all the water out. Dry suits are expensive, but if you spend a lot of time paddling in cold conditions, they are well worth the price.
• Spray Skirts
If you're using a sit-inside kayak you can also use a spray skirt, which keeps the cold water out and keeps the hot air in. When you're putting on a spray skirt, you want to start along the back and work your way up along the coaming, then pull the skirt over the front coaming, making sure you leave the rip cord out, because that's what you're going to pull to pop the spray skirt if you do end up flipping.

This video provides an introduction to the different weather and water situations to consider when dressing for kayaking.

Dressing for Kayaking video

Lake George

Lately with all the rain we have been hitting the lakes because the rivers and creeks have been washed out.
One of my favorite places to go is Lake George on Morningstar Rd.Lake George is located inside one of the 5 Rivers Metro Parks called Twin Creek Metro Park.
This lake is really more of a pond as it is not that big in size but it is home to some nice fish.
I have shown this lake to the members of my fishing group and everyone that goes there comes away liking it.
There have been some nice blue gill and bass pulled from this lake.
Over this past weekend 2 new members of my group join Chris and I and Brad find the sweet spot pointed out by Chris.
Within minutes of throwing his lure Brad was pulling out some really nice bass.
Brad stayed at the lake for a few hours and I saw him pull out 4 bass between 2-4 pounds.
After Brad left Chris went over there and caught another nice bass
Anthony and I on this day got skunked.Did not catch anything except a couple mosquito bites
The following day I went back and hit the sweet spot
We have found out that in this area there is a large hole about 15ft deep going into the shallows
This is idea for the bass to spawn and to found some food
We believe this is why we call this the sweet spot
Remember if you go to Lake George and find the sweet spot please return any fish caught so they can grow up

Also as I was leaving I went across one of the small creeks feeding the lake and found a nice sized crawdad
This just proves that this little lake is healthy and strong as crawdads can not handle polluted waters
Lets help keeep this lake and all of our waters clean and healthy

Thanks to all the members of TCFF

Rob

Pumkinseed

Pumpkinseed, September 2014, Fish of the Month!

A brief note about this family of Fishes: The Sunfish family includes a large number of very North American species. We're including many of them here (in spite of their often small size) because they make excellent warm-water training species for young anglers and because adult warm-water fly-fishers are likely to often take them as incidental catches and would like to know what species they've brought to hand.

Pumpkinseed

Lepomis gibbosus

Local Names:

Sunny, Common sunfish, Kivvy, Kibbie, Yellowbelly, Quiver, Roach, Sunfish, Sun bass, Punky

Average Size:

7 to 8 inches

Distinguishing Field Marks:

(See the illustration.)

Deep almost round body, with a high rounded back.

The head is not large in comparison to the body.

The eye is large and dark colored.

There are pale aqua-blue irregular streaks on the gill covers and cheeks.

The opercular (ear) flaps are relatively short with black interiors bordered by a white outside edge with a short red mark just below the center of the flap. This red mark on the "ear-flap" is a reliable field mark to distinguish this species from the Bluegill.

The mouth is small and tipped upward. The upper jaw extends back only to the front edge of the eye.

The first dorsal fin has 10 spines and is fully attached to the second dorsal.

The tail is slightly forked with rounded lobes.

The anal fin has 3 graduated spines.

The paired pelvic fins have 1 spine and pointed tips.

The pectoral fins are large, nearly transparent, and pointed.

Diet:

Throughout their lives, Pumpkinseeds feed almost exclusively on immature and adult aquatic insects and other invertebrates. They often feed at or near the water's surface.

Biology:

Genus-typical winter aggregations of Pumpkinseed sunfish break up at water temperatures of about 50 degrees F. when mature males move to shallower areas, choose and defend nesting territories, and begin fin-fanning the bottom to open nests that are situated very close together.

Water temperatures in these shallow nesting areas rise quickly inducing spawning that may last from June well into August. With the completion of the nests, females will begin entering the colony and males will rush to them and commence a courtship dance which involves their swimming in circles around and over the female with which they choose to spawn. When the pairs are ready, they begin circling the nest and then the female tips her body, with the male remaining upright, and their vents touching. Small batches of eggs and milt are released and settle into the bottom of the nest. The pair then goes back to circling the nest in preparation for another spawning. This ritual may go on over the course of a day or two. Females may mate with several males and breeding pairs may also spawn over nests which are not their own. The eggs, guarded and aerated by the male parent, incubate for a period of from 3 to 5 days, and the male remains at the nest site, protecting the newly-hatched fry for a short period.

As adults, Pumpkinseeds are found in shallow rocky or weedy areas of lakes, ponds, and slower portions of some streams.

Fly Fishing for Pumpkinseed:

Now widely distributed in the United States and southern Canada, the Pumpkinseed is one of the most frequently caught members of its genus. This colorful, aggressive, hard-fighting species is very willing to take a broad range of small offerings. Wet and dry flies, and small poppers, will all entice Pumpkinseed to strike.

Fly fishing gear in the 3 to 5 weight range is best for handling these fish. As Pumpkinseeds frequently take food at the surface, occasionally gain good size, and are very strong battlers, using their deep slab-sided bodies to their best advantage when hooked, using small foam bodied poppers on a floating line is a very enjoyable sight-fishing approach to taking these rather elegant fish.

Significance to Humans:

One of the most common of our small sunfishes, the Pumpkinseed is an excellent sport fish for its size and is also a fine fish for the table. It is also another of our small sunfishes that can thrive in the habitat of a home aquarium.

Status:

Thriving throughout its broad North American range.

A write up about a local fisherman called Steve Coomer aka OldStinkyGuy by Chris Hampton

All,
 I had the honor of attending a seminar given by Steve Coomer
(OldStinkyGuy) last night. For those of you that may be unfamiliar with
Steve, he is a master angler, photographer, and published author. He has
been fishing the Little Miami and other area streams 3-4 times per week for
the past 40+ years. His presentation was on Fall river fishing for
Smallmouth Bass. 
 Mr. Coomer is a friendly, soft spoken, and modest man. When he
speaks about fishing however, there is no doubt that his words come from a
deep understanding of his quarry. I am sure that most of you know that fish
are on a mission in the fall. That mission is to eat as much as they can
tolerate until the winter sets in and they become essentially dormant until
spring. This "magical time" can last a few days or even a month or so. Steve
explained to us that the smallmouth keys in on the length of day during the
fall to determine when it will begin migrating to the deep, still pockets
and holes where they will spend the winter. This migration will concentrate
upwards of 90% of the larger fish into a very small portion of the available
water. In opening his discussion he placed an emphasis on the slow fishing I
think we are all seeing right now. His assessment of this is based on the
high water temperature and low water conditions of course. During this time
Mr. Coomer says that he spends his time focusing on being prepared when that
"magical time" begins. Starting within a few days before or after the fall
equinox (September 21,22,23 every year) fish will begin to make their move.
As water temps begin to fall into the mid 60s and below (down to around the
low 50s) these feisty beasts become ravenous. Taking in anything that is
thrown at them. 
 Some of the best information presented during the seminar was
Steve's approach to lure selection in different structure. In fast riffles
he chooses minnow imitators in darker colors and smaller sizes. Something in
the 2.5" to 3.5" range was roughly his preference. Using a high sticking
method of up and across stream with little if any retrieve, the minnows will
tumble through the riffle and out much like the forage fish will.
Positioning yourself directly across stream from where you expect the bite
to occur and casting upstream from there was the recommended method. Unlike
the crayfish imitations most of us throw here, the minnow baits should be
kept slightly above the bottom. In order to ensure that the bait is staying
suspended, but flowing naturally, Steve suggested starting with a heavy lure
up to 1/2 oz. or more in some cases. If you find that you are dragging the
bottom, then progressively decreasing weight will allow you to find that
perfect presentation. 
 As you move through the run below a riffle the presenter recommended
shifting your attention higher in the water column to imitate the shiners
that tend to be more present in the slower moving water. Here he selects a
larger, lighter colored minnow bait for the same reason. This is where
things like plugs, and even top water lures are going to come into play. The
approach was a little less specific but, considering the more varied
selection of lure styles, I think trial-and-error may be the only way to key
in on the "best" approach. 
 In either structural environment Steve made it very clear that one
thing is consistent. If the water is in the smallmouth's wheelhouse, they
WILL be feeding constantly. He stressed several times the concept of fish
condensing into smaller areas. Thus if you are throwing the recommended
patterns and you feel your presentation is good, cast 25-30 times covering
an area. If, after doing so, you have not caught anything at all then you
are in the wrong spot. Move to the next riffle upstream or down and begin
again. If you find that you are catching a ton of smaller fish, the choice
is up to you. You can stay and enjoy catching your fill and having a blast
doing it. If, however, you want to find the catch of a lifetime then you
should move again. According to Steve's research and experience the larger
bass won't be feeding with the little guys. They will have taken up
residence among their peers at the best points close to their winter homes.
 After the presentation I had a chance to spend some time talking
with Steve and several other members of the OGF site. I was then invited out
to dinner with these guys and had an incredible time. I must admit, I was a
little out of place in the group, but was made to feel right at home among
them. All-in-all, this was a great experience and one that I will not soon
forget.
 Please understand that I have barely touched the surface of the vast
amount of knowledge presented. More information can be found in Steve's Book
that I believe Rob linked on the website and on Facebook. I will link this
below as well. After the presentation I had a chance to spend some time
talking with Steve and several other members of the OGF site. I was then
invited out to dinner with these guys and had an incredible time. I must
admit, I was a little out of place in the group, but was made to feel right
at home among them. All-in-all, this was a great experience and one that I
will not soon forget.

Hope to see you all on the water soon,
Chris

Orvis Knots

Generally you use simple knots when spin-fishing or bait casting

When you get into Fly fishing sometimes you need special knots to tie on fly line,backing,leaders,tippet and flies

To help with this Orvis has come up with this animated tying tool

Check out this link to help with your knots

Orvis Knots

It's a Game Fish......

Disparagingly dismissed by many anglers as a "trash" fish, the longnose gar is, in fact, a hard fighter that is more than willing to take a fly.  And they are actually quite pretty fish, with leopard spots, opalescent scales and pinkish tails. If these fish don't get your adrenaline pumping, you're probably better off just grabbing your laptop and playing a game or two at www.Partypoker.com

Gar Flies

The problem with gar is that their mouth is mainly bone and teeth and even the sharpest hook will seldom penetrate. The solution is the rope fly, tied with nothing but some slightly unbraided nylon rope and maybe a little flash. The gar mouths the fly and the nylon becomes tangled in its fine teeth.  Resist the temptation to set the hook - give the fish slack immediately and let him shake his head several times before you tighten up.

The bottom fly of the first photo is a veteran of several fish; the others are new.  I use 1/4" nylon rope, pull out the center core and unbraid the individual strands.  The fly is tied on a small stainless ring (available from FeatherCraft) with one section of rope (doubled) per fly.  Insert the nylon strands (twice the length of the finished fly), and flash if desired, through the ring with a bobbin threader.  Wrap head with heavy tying thread - this is easier to do with your hands instead of using a vise. I usually make the thread wraps about 3/4" long.  After a quick whip-finish, I usually wrap the head with some lead tape for a little weight, then paint and epoxy.  The nylon will take color from permanent markers if you want to get fancy.

I prefer my flies 7-9" long.  This makes them a bit hard to throw using lighter rods, but the longer length "hooks" better.  Rods in the 7-weight to 9-weight range make these flies much easier to throw.  I sometimes cut-down flies to carry when fishing lighter rods, but my hook-up ratio is lower.

Though some people use them, I've never found wire leaders necessary for gar.  In fact, with the rope flies, I often catch them without any kind of "bite" or "shock" tippet. My standard rig is usually a 7-9' leader with 12-16lb tippet, and about a 6" bite tippet of 30-lb mono. I use the non-slip mono loop to attach the fly.

"Hooking" The Fish

Gar fishing is often "sight-fishing".  The fish spend a lot of time on or near the surface and the angler can often spot the fish before the cast.  Gar are often seen "porpoising" slowly on the surface - when acting this way, they may or may not be feeding.  At times, they will be aggressively slapping at bait near the surface - this is typically feeding activity.  Especially in warm weather, you may see the fish just hanging motionless on or near the surface - this is sometimes a resting pose, but it can also be a camouflaging maneuver.  The gar will hold, looking like a floating stick, and then flash into action when an unsuspecting baitfish nears. In most cases, the gar will actually ease up with his snout parallel to the prey fish. The, with a sudden sideways twist of the head, he'll nail the bait. They seem to prefer striking with the center section of their jaws rather than taking frontally - this is probably because the incapacitate the prey before trying to swallow it.

Tactics for getting the gar to eat the fly will vary. My most-used technique is a slow, erratic movement of the fly.  I try to throw as you normally would when sight-fishing, leading the fish in a direction so that my retrieve intersects his path without swimming toward him.  Sometimes when the gar are actively feeding,  a fast retrieve will trigger a strike. Generally, the slow technique brings

the most hits for me.

 

The slow strip method offers another considerable advantage.  Ironically, considering its vicious-looking mouth full of teeth, the gar's strike is often quite subtle.   Perhaps with all those sharp teeth, he only needs to bite lightly on his normal prey.  His bite is not

to kill, injure or incapacitate the bait, but rather just to catch.  With a fast strip, it is quite easy to pull the fly right out of the gar's mouth (before the nylon tangles).  In fact, if you don't see the take, it may feel like nothing more than a very light tap or bump.  It is critically important that you give the fish slack immediately.  With no tension, the fly has a much better chance of tangling in the teeth.  I like to let the fish run for 20-30', hopefully feeling several head shakes in the process. Only then will I tighten up on the line. And make sure you just tighten up, no set hard.

At times you will see the fish on top and then they will submerge and you lose sight.  A sinking or sink-tip line can be useful in times like this. Cast in the general direction and fish very slowly, with regular hesitations.  The big fly has good visibility, and you'll often draw a hit from an unseen fish.  Here especially you must be alert for the slightest bump and immediately "dead-stick" the fly.

Landing & Releasing The Gar

Once the gar eats and the fly is tangled in his teeth, the fight begins. This is a strong fish capable of fast, hard runs, sometimes mixed with tail-walking jumps.  Some fish seem to give up after one good run, though they may explode again right at the boat.  Others will test your fish-fighting skills, first making long runs and then slugging it out close quarters with under-the-boat spurts.  When they get close to the boat, exercise considerable caution - as they can jump right in - and an angry 4' fish with a mouth full of teeth won't do you legs or the rods in you rod rack any good (don't ask how I know this!).

Removing the fly from the fish may be the hardest part of the whole proposition.  You'll need something to hold his mouth open and a stiff brush to pull the fibers from his teeth.   A glove or a towel will help you hold the fish - the scales can cut and the fish is very slick and very strong.  Note the teeth - hundreds of them & very sharp - I suggest a sturdy glove.  I like a big screw-driver and a jaw-jack designed for pike and musky.  Some anglers use a home-made wooden jig to hold the mouth open.  Regardless, maintain a firm hold on the fish throughout - they'll "play possum" and then explode when you least expect.

The fly will be a tangled mess - no problem, just comb it out a little and it'll still work just fine.

Eating Gar

There are those who claim gar is quite good to eat ("tastes like chicken," right).  I am in no position to debate the point as I've never tried. The instructions for cleaning given on a website somewhere suggest a big axe and a bandsaw for prepping the fish - I don't have a bandsaw.

2014 Season is upon us

Just letting everyone know that we have been out hitting some of our local waters.

Jim Deski and I hit Lake George and did pretty well catching some nice Bluegill

Hope to hit The Mad River and catch some trout in the upcoming weeks

Will let everyone know when we plan this trip as it should be an exciting day of fishing

If you have ideas of places to go pass them along us we are always looking for new and exciting places to get our lines wet

Most Wanted Poster for Asian Carp

Asian Carp

Hypophthalmichthys molitrix (Valenciennes in Cuvier and Valenciennes, 1844)

Common name: silver carp

Identification: Distinguishing characteristics were given in Berg (1949). Keys that include this species and photographs or illustrations are provided in several of the more recently published state and regional fish books (e.g., Robison and Buchanan 1988; Etnier and Starnes 1993; Pflieger 1997).

Size: 1 m and 27 kg.

Native Range: Several major Pacific drainages in eastern Asia from the Amur River of far eastern Russia south through much of eastern half of China to Pearl River, possibly including northern Vietnam (Berg 1949; Li and Fang 1990).

Alaska	Hawaii	Puerto Rico &Virgin Islands

Interactive maps: Point Distribution Maps

Nonindigenous Occurrences: This species has been recorded from the Black Warrior and Tallapoosa river drainages of the Mobile Basin, including Yates Reservoir and throughout the central part of Alabama (Mettee et al. 1996; J. Hornsby and M. Pierson, personal communication; Rasmussen 1998); and from the Arkansas and White River systems (including the the lower Cache River), the Ouachita River, Bayou Meto Drainage, and the Mississippi River mainstem in Arkansas (Freeze and Henderson 1982; Carter and Beadles 1983; Courtenay et al. 1984; Robison and Buchanan 1988). It has been stocked in water treatment ponds on the East Slope of Colorado (D. Horak, personal communication).  A specimen was collected in power plant reservoir in Larimer Co.; plant is on Rawhide Creek; a trib of the Cache la Poudre River (Walker, unpublished).  It has been intentionally released in Hawaii (Davidson et al. 1992). It has also been collected or reported from several water bodies in, or bordering, Illinois, including the Mississippi, Spoon, Illinois, and Ohio rivers and several of their tributaries, the Muddy River, Muscooten Bay, Horseshoe Lake and vicinity in the Cache River drainage (Burr 1991; Burr et al. 1996; Laird and Page 1996; Illinois Natural History Survey2004; Hoff, pers. comm.; Etnier, pers. comm.; Thomas, pers. comm.; Irons, pers. comm.; Southern Illinois University, unpublished) and the Embarras River below Lake Charleston (K. Cummings, personal communication). There are also records of this species from the southeastern part of Indiana (presumably the Ohio River) (Courtenay et al. 1991; Simon et al. 1992) and west fork of the White River in Greene County (Anonymous 2003); the Des Moines and Chariton Rivers, Iowa (Iowa DNR 2003), White River at Hazelton (Caskey, pers. comm.) and the Wabash River (Thomas, pers. comm.); eastern rivers in Kansas and some unspecified location(s) in Kansas (Rasmussen 1998; Courtenay et al. 1991) (possibly the Missouri River); from the Ohio River, Clarks River, and non-specific locations in Kentucky (Pearson and Krumholz 1984; Burr and Warren 1986; Rasmussen 1998; Thomas, pers. comm.; Henley, pers. comm.; Southern Illinois University; Baxter, pers. comm.); from the lower Mississippi River and many tributary sites in Louisiana including the Atchafalaya, Red, Boeuf, Old, Ouachita, and Little river drainages, LaFourche Canal, Miller Lake, and Loggy Bayou (Freeze and Henderson 1982; Carp Task Force 1989; Douglas et al. 1996; Rasmussen 1998; F. Bryan and J. Hughes Little, pers. comm.); the Mississippi River, Yazoo River, and Chotard Lake in Mississippi (Mississippi Museum of Natural Science 2004; Schramm et al. 2004);  from the Mississippi and Missouri river mainstems and the Lamine and Castor Rivers, Missouri (Courtenay et al. 1991; Robinson 1995; Pflieger 1997; Rasmussen 1998; Lien 2003), the Little River Ditches, Upper Mississippi-Cape Girardeau, and The Sny drainages (Southern Illinois University), the Lower Missouri-Moreau, Lower Grand, Lamine, Lower Osage drainages (Chapman, pers. comm.); the Missouri River drainage and Elkhorn River Nebraska (Nebraska Game and Parks 2000) and established in Boyer Chute National Wildlife Refuge (USFWS 2005); the Missouri River up to Gavins Point Dam (W. Stancill, pers. comm.), the Big Sioux River near Canton (T. St. Sauver, pers. comm.), and the mouth of the James River (R. Klumb, pers. comm.) in South Dakota. They also have been collected from a Mississippi River outflow in Tennessee (C. Saylor, personal communication; Etnier, pers. comm.) and McKellar Lake in Memphis (Baxter, pers. comm.).

This species has also been collected at golf course ponds at Dorado Beach Hotel in Puerto Rico (Erdman 1984).

Means of Introduction: This species was imported and stocked for phytoplankton control in eutrophic water bodies and also apparently as a food fish. It was first brought into the United States in 1973 when a private fish farmer imported silver carp into Arkansas (Freeze and Henderson 1982). By the mid 1970s the silver carp was being raised at six state, federal, and private facilities, and by the late 1970s it had been stocked in several municipal sewage lagoons (Robison and Buchanan 1988). By 1980 the species was discovered in natural waters, probably a result of escapes from fish hatcheries and other types of aquaculture facilities (Freeze and Henderson 1982). The occurrence of silver carp in the Ouachita River of the Red River system in Louisiana was likely the result of an escape from an aquaculture facility upstream in Arkansas (Freeze and Henderson 1982). The Florida introduction was probably a result of stock contamination, a silver carp having been inadvertently released with a stock of grass carp being used for aquatic plant control (Middlemas 1994). In a similar case, the species was apparently introduced accidentally to an Arizona lake as part of an intentional, albeit illegal, stock of diploid grass carp (W. Silvey, personal communication). Pearson and Krumholz (1984) suggested that individuals taken from the Ohio River may have come from plantings in local ponds or entered the Ohio River from populations originally introduced in Arkansas.

Status: Records are available for 12 states. It is apparently established in Louisiana (Douglas et al. 1996) and is possibly established in Illinois; silver carp have been reported in Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, Colorado, Florida, Indiana, Kansas, Kentucky, Missouri, and Tennessee. Douglas et al. (1996) collected more than 1600 larvae of this genus from a backwater outlet of the Black River in Louisiana in 1994. Burr et al. (1996) found young-of-the-year in a ditch near Horseshoe Lake and reported this as the first evidence of successful spawning of silver carp in Illinois waters and the United States. They felt that the species would be `established' in the state within the next ten years. Based on the occurrence of juvenile fish in Illinois waters, Pflieger (1997) felt that successful spawning of silver carp in Missouri seems inevitable. In the early 1980s commercial fishermen in Arkansas had caught 166 silver carp from seven different sites; however, during an intensive 1980-1981 survey to determine the distribution and status of bighead and silver carp in state open waters, Arkansas Game and Fish Commission personnel were unsuccessful in procuring any additional specimens (Freeze and Henderson 1982). Although Arkansas state personnel did not find young-of-the-year fish, several specimens taken by the commercial fishermen were sexually mature and exhibited secondary sexual characteristics (Freeze and Henderson 1982). Nevertheless, Robison and Buchanan (1988) reported that there was still no evidence of natural reproduction in Arkansas waters. Rinne (1995) listed silver carp as introduced to Arizona in 1972 and denoted it as established. Apparently in reference to the same record, William Silvey of the Arizona Game and Fish Department recently informed us that the only silver carp documented in Arizona open waters was a population inhabiting an urban lake in Chandler during the early 1970s. However, further investigation has shown that it was most likely a bighead x grass carp hybrid population (P. Marsh, pers.comm.). That population, along with a large population of diploid grass carp, was exterminated in 1975 or 1976 by personnel from the Arizona Game and Fish Department and Arizona State University (W. Silvey, personal communication). Pearson and Krumholz (1984) documented records from the Ohio River, but they did not include it as one of the species that exist in well-established, reproducing populations. Etnier and Starnes (1993) provided information on silver carp, but by publication they were unaware of any records of the species in the state of Tennessee.

Impact of Introduction: Pflieger (1997) considered the impact of this species difficult to predict because of its place in the food web. In numbers, the silver carp has the potential to cause enormous damage to native species because it feeds on plankton required by larval fish and native mussels (Laird and Page 1996). This species would also be a potential competitor with adults of some native fishes, for instance, gizzard shad, that also rely on plankton for food (Pflieger 1997).  A study by Sampson et al. (2009) found that Asian carp (silver and bighead carps) had dietary overlap with gizzard shad and bigmouth buffalo, but not much of one with paddlefish.

Remarks: Jenkins and Burkhead (1994) reported on the use of silver carp in a wastewater treatment pond in the upper James River drainage of Virginia. However, there is as yet no record of the species in Virginia open waters. One of the so-called Chinese carps, the silver carp is a filter-feeder capable of taking large amounts of phytoplankton. Its diet also includes zooplankton, bacteria, and detritus (Leventer 1987). This species has been intensively cultured in many parts of the world, often raised in combination with other fishes.
The report in Fuller et al. (1999) from Bay County, Florida was actually a bighead carp (UF 98162).

Spring Fever

Just want to let everyone know that spring is right around the corner

We don't need a groundhog to tell us when it's fishing time,all we need to do is watch for jumping fish

I checked out a couple new spots during the winter months and discussed them with Matt (one of our members) and he agrees with our new fishing hole

Not going to tell you where it is until you sign up and join us for a meeting at the one of our old fishing holes

I am going to try and hit Twin Creek by the dam within the next week or two to get the kinks out of the rods

But before I do that I need to replace my lines

I think I am going to go with 4lb test on my main rod and have abackup in the car with 8lb

As usual I will also have my flyrod in the car when I head out just in case I feel like using that

Matt and I also disussed wading a bit more this year

In the past we both have held tight to the shore but it's time o get wet

We have been discussing waders or jeans

Hip waders are nice to have but most of the time we will e near shore so hip boots might be the way to go

Either way I am sure to have extra clothes in the car

We were also talking creek bags vs tackle box vs vest

Matt has gone the route of stream bag

I am going to throw the tackle box in the car and use my small fly fishing shoulder bag

It will hod just about everything I need to hit rivers or creeks and if we are lake fishig I can always pull out the tackle box

So if anyone has any questions,comments or suggestions feel free to email me at bronzeback60@gmail.com

See you on the ater soon

Bing Maps for Fishing Sites

This is a cool map to use to check out areas you might want to fish

It zooms in pretty good to get a good idea of whats around

Give it a try

Bing Map

Twin Creek Fishing Fraternity

If you like to fish in the Carlisle or Franklin Ohio area please join our little group

We will be going around the area and fishing some of Ohio's best creeks,rivers,lakes and ponds

There is no cost to join

If you want to learn more check us out at
https://sites.google.com/site/twincreekfishingfraternity/

Wading with Rob

This is a word sheet of collected information.

Most of it pertains to fly fishing but I am sure any one who has spent time on the water will enjoy the information I have collected.

If there is something you wish to add feel free to contact me and I will look it over and decide from there.

Just click on the title name and you will be redirected to Wading with Rob document

Thank you and enjoy

The Giant Woolly Bully

The Giant Woolly Bully

Tied by christhemartin
Fly Type: Streamers
Target Species: Pike
Recommended Region: Eastern Canada
Imitation: General Baitfish
Material List: Gamakatsu SC15-2H 4/0
Tail Support: Steve Farrar Flash Blend or Bucktail
Tail: Icelandic Sheep's Hair
Tail Flash Flashaboo
Sides: 3 - 5 Matched Saddle Hackles per side
Wing: Icelandic Sheep's Hair
Wing Flash: Flashaboo
Belly: Icelandic Sheep's Hair
Collar: Maraboo
Gills: EP Silky Fibers
Head: Rams Wool or Sculpin Wool
Eyes

Tying Instructions: Less is not more in this case... more is more! This pattern was featured in Hatches. This version is a juiced up steroid version for monster Pike and Muskie.
Presentation Tips: Chuck and duck!

I throw it on weighted forward line and add split shot to achieve desired depth

Strip, strip pause... strip strip smash!

Winter Midges

The Midge: a Fly for When the Snow Flies


Does no hatch mean no fishing? Certainly not. From streamers to egg patterns, from attractors to terrestrials, there are ways to find and catch trout in the absence of hatching mayflies or caddis. Still, we are fly-fishers, and one of the things we miss most during the winter is flies. So thank goodness for midges.

These little bugs - some of which aren't all that little, actually - are active in all but the coldest weather, and serve as major a source of food for trout. Most of the action is sub-surface, as you may expect, but if you're in the right place at the right time, you may even find trout rising to hatching midges in December, January or February.

The right place is almost always flat, slow-moving pools. The right time is a windless day when both air and water temperatures climb up into the balmy 30s or 40s. It doesn't happen every week. If you're there when it does, say a prayer of thanks to the fishing gods, add some 6X tippet to your leader, tie on your favorite floating midge pattern and savor the experience.

Midges spend most of their lives (up to seven years in polar regions) as slender, segmented larvae. They go through a brief pupal phase, hatch at or near the surface and fly off to live brief lives as winged insects, just like mayflies and caddis. There are many species and they are widely distributed. In many waters, including many trout streams, they are by far the most numerous insect, not just in the winter but all year 'round.

On the chance that you might luck into hatching midges and rising trout, it pays to have a basic assortment of dry flies among your winter tackle. Simple flies will usually do. Patterns such as the Midge Dry, with a tail, body and hackle, will imitate midges effectively; you can probably get away with two colors, gray and cream, and two or three sizes, starting at 18 and going as small as you dare. Small versions of the same Adamses and Elk-Hair Caddis you use the rest of the year can work too, but they should be light and sparse. While riding along the surface, midges keep their two long wings flat along their backs, but as they hatch or struggle to get airborne, there is much fluttering and the wings spend considerable time upright. So you can use either down-wing or up-wing flies. Most midge anglers don't worry about wings on their flies; a collar of hackle will simulate legs and wings well enough.

Of course, the king of the midge dry-fly patterns is the Griffith's Gnat, and for good reason: it's a super effective fly. It may not look exactly like the midge on the water, but it must look like a good bug to eat. Various body colors are available and all are effective at one time or another, but there seems to be a special mojo about the original peacock herl and grizzly hackle formula.

As during the rest of the year, rises during a wintertime hatch may actually indicate that fish are feeding just below the surface, not on it. That is, they're taking emergers, not dries. This calls for small soft-hackle wet flies. A Soft-Hackle Hare's Ear, Partridge and Green or Partridge and Yellow may connect you with trout.

As noted, rising trout are the exception, not the rule, in winter. Most of the time, you will arrive at your river to find the flat pools smooth and undisturbed. That's OK - we winter anglers know we're probably going to end up nymphing. But knowing that midges live in your river - and even if there's not a full-blown hatch, you'll usually see at least a few flying around - will empower you to nymph with confidence, knowing your fly looks much like the food trout have been eating every day for weeks.

If the Griffith's Gnat is the classic midge dry, the classic nymph is the Brassie. But many more great patterns have been developed over the years: consider having the Serendipity, the WD40 or the Zebra Midge at your disposal. Even a small, skinny Hare's Ear or Copper John may do the trick. Fish them patiently, near the bottom, under a strike indicator, and be alert for subtle takes. Since trout aren't moving much in the winter, you have to. Cover as much water as you can.

Truth be told, we would probably all catch more trout if we fished midges more often in the spring, summer and fall. Fat chance - most of us are addicted to mayflies and forget about every other bug in the world at the first dun sighting.

In the winter, however, it's midges that are hatching and putting the fish on the feed. So it's midges we will fish.

So check out The Fly Shack for your favorite Midge

25 Greatest Flies

Taken from Field and Stream online magazine.

Enjoy

Fly Fishing Knots

Knots

Click the above name Knots to be connected to the Orvis Knot Tying page

In my opinion this is one of the best pages to learn how to tie the knots needed while fly fishing

The Adams Modern

Adams Modern

I'm getting old enough that "New and Improved", in my opinion, is not always better. It's not that I'm against progress, fly tying has improved so much over the years.
I find new materials and techniques that I think are worth a try all the time. But my point is, don't forget the tried and true.
I went fishing one day and after trying several newer patterns I saw a couple Parachute Adams(Modern Adams) in a corner of my box. I had tied these early in the spring after a conversation with a friend about his dry fly pattern selection process. He uses Parachute Adams, of a couple different sizes, and occasionally with an olive body, that's his go to pattern when fishing dries. Well long story short, on the 3rd of May I waded toward the largest fish I seen in the water all day.With confidence I placed my fly near the fish and he sucked in my size 12 Adams with a flurry.
Sorry, there's no pictures; it was a short battle in clear water with a light tippet on my 5 wt. rod. But it made my day.

Here's the instructions to tie your own Adam's Modern

Hook: Standard Dry
FlyThread: 6/0 black
Wing: Calf body, white (*see note in tying sequence)
Tail: Hackle fibers; mixed grizzly/brown
Body: Muskrat fur, dubbed
Hackle: Mixed grizzly/brown

1) Wrap a thread base from just behind the eye, back to mid-shank and then forward to about the one-third point on the shank. This creates a base for the wing fibers to bind to.

2) Cut, clean, and stack a bundle of calf body hair. Measure the hair to be 1-1/2 to 2 times longer than the hook gape, cut the butt end at a taper and tie in with wraps that move rearward. Bring your thread all the way to the back of the shank. * Different materials can be used for the wing. See the Delong Lake Special, FOM June '99, for a discussion on different hairs and synthetics. Some anglers like fluorescent dyed materials that can be seen better in low light conditions.

3) Dub a small amount of fur on your thread and create a small ball at the end of the body. This step is optional on most parachute instructions, but I like to do it as it allow the tail fibers to flair upward and splay out. This creates a wider base to support the rear of the fly in the surface film.

4) Mix fibers from a grizzly and a brown hackle. Use two (2) soft loops to attach the tail fibers to the shank just in front of the fur bump. Use your fingers to splay the fibers and place a few firm wraps forward to secure the tail. I prefer the hackles from the side of a neck, or the very end of a saddle. These feathers usually have the longest, stiff fibers.

5) Dub fur onto your thread and build a tapered body up to the base of the wing. As always with dubbing; go light on material and make more wraps for a tight body.

6) Lift and post the wing. See FOM 6/99 for additional discussion on posting.

7) Prepare two hackles by stripping away the softer base fibers. Tie in at a slight angle as shown. It helps if you leave a small amount bare stem above the wraps. This allows the stem to begin its wraps

8) Dub the rest of the body. Because you're going wrap the hackle around the wing you should bring your dubbing fairly close to the eye.

9) Wrap the first hackle (I like to start with dominant color, in this case, grizzly). Place each wrap underneath the previous wrap, bringing the feather down to the body. Tie off with four (4) wraps. Try to capture just the stem on the first wrap to minimize bulk. Do not cut the tip off.

10) Wrap the second hackle through the first. Be careful, working the stem through the grizzly fibers so as not to trap and crush them. Unwrap three of the four wraps holding the first hackle.

Again, trying to capture just the stem, secure the second hackle with three wraps. Clip both tips and any stray fibers. Half hitch and whip finish.

Comments: This angled, top view shows the parachute style hackles and splayed tail. This combination makes for a very stable, low riding fly. Parachutes can be created out of almost any of your favorite patterns, simply alter the wing into a single post and wrap the hackle horizontally. Spend some time this spring and tie up a couple parachutes and give them a try when those newer and improved patterns are getting snubbed.