Dressing for Kayaking

Dressing for Kayaking

Warm Weather & Water
If you live in a hot part of the world that has warm water, dressing for kayaking is simple. Your biggest challenge will be staying cool, hydrated, and protected from the sun, and this should be something that you're used to doing. The most simple solution involves using sunscreen and wearing a hat. Sunglasses are also helpful because the glare off the water can be blinding, and you'll want to use some type of retainer strap so you don't lose them. Of course the best way to protect yourself from the sun is to cover up, so you might want to wear a light long-sleeved shirt. Below the waist, surf shorts and water shoes or sandal like Tevas work great.

Warm Weather & Cold Water
Dressing for cold water is far more difficult, especially when the air is warm. Even on the hottest days, if you find yourself swimming, the cold water can suck the heat out of your body at a surprising speed. If you're paddling a sit-on-top kayak, you have to expect that you're lower body is going to be wet, whereas a sit inside kayak will protect you a lot more from both the wind and the water. On the other hand, if you flip when paddling a sit-on-top kayak, you can just climb back on the boat. But if you flip a sit-inside, it will take you a lot longer to get back on board, which means you'll spend more time in the cold water.
Close to Shore vs. Off Shore
Of course the best strategy is to avoid capsizing altogether, and this is easy to do in a rec kayak, as long as you stay in areas that are protected from heavy wind and waves. On the other hand, if you're going to paddle a narrow sea kayak in cold water, you should take professional instruction and learn the different capsize recovery techniques.
Whatever boat you're paddling, it only makes sense that you stay close to shore, so that if you do flip, you have the option of just swimming to shore, while your buddies gather your equipment.
If you're going to be paddling in more committing areas, where you won't be able to get to shore very often, it's important to choose the right clothing. You want to be able to wear something that will keep you warm if you get wet, but that you won't overheat in when you're paddling. A neoprene Farmer John wet suit works well for this purpose, because it insulates when it's wet, and doesn't get in the way while you're paddling.
Cold Air & Cold Water
When both the water and air temperature are cold, you have to be aware of the threat of hypothermia and understand that paddling in these types of conditions isn't for everyone. But if you are going to hit the water, you need to use clothing that will keep you warm, even when they are wet.
• Fabric
Synthetic fabric like fleece, neoprene, and polypropylene are good for this reason, and it's best to use a couple of thinner layers instead of one thick layer. Wool also works well although it's slow to dry and heavy when it's wet. Cotton is one of the all-time worst materials to wear when it's cold. Cotton actually draws heat from your body when it's wet.
• Paddling Tops/Bottoms
Over top, you'll want to have an outer shell that keeps the wind off your body. A waterproof nylon jacket and pants will do the trick, but at you local outdoor or paddling shop, you'll find paddling tops and paddling bottoms that are designed specifically for the purpose. On you feet, neoprene booties and socks will help keep your toes warm.
• Dry Suits
The ultimate protection against the cold, though, is the dry suit. A dry suit uses latex gaskets at the ankle, wrists, and at the neck, which keeps all the water out. Dry suits are expensive, but if you spend a lot of time paddling in cold conditions, they are well worth the price.
• Spray Skirts
If you're using a sit-inside kayak you can also use a spray skirt, which keeps the cold water out and keeps the hot air in. When you're putting on a spray skirt, you want to start along the back and work your way up along the coaming, then pull the skirt over the front coaming, making sure you leave the rip cord out, because that's what you're going to pull to pop the spray skirt if you do end up flipping.

This video provides an introduction to the different weather and water situations to consider when dressing for kayaking.

Dressing for Kayaking video

Lake George

Lately with all the rain we have been hitting the lakes because the rivers and creeks have been washed out.
One of my favorite places to go is Lake George on Morningstar Rd.Lake George is located inside one of the 5 Rivers Metro Parks called Twin Creek Metro Park.
This lake is really more of a pond as it is not that big in size but it is home to some nice fish.
I have shown this lake to the members of my fishing group and everyone that goes there comes away liking it.
There have been some nice blue gill and bass pulled from this lake.
Over this past weekend 2 new members of my group join Chris and I and Brad find the sweet spot pointed out by Chris.
Within minutes of throwing his lure Brad was pulling out some really nice bass.
Brad stayed at the lake for a few hours and I saw him pull out 4 bass between 2-4 pounds.
After Brad left Chris went over there and caught another nice bass
Anthony and I on this day got skunked.Did not catch anything except a couple mosquito bites
The following day I went back and hit the sweet spot
We have found out that in this area there is a large hole about 15ft deep going into the shallows
This is idea for the bass to spawn and to found some food
We believe this is why we call this the sweet spot
Remember if you go to Lake George and find the sweet spot please return any fish caught so they can grow up

Also as I was leaving I went across one of the small creeks feeding the lake and found a nice sized crawdad
This just proves that this little lake is healthy and strong as crawdads can not handle polluted waters
Lets help keeep this lake and all of our waters clean and healthy

Thanks to all the members of TCFF

Rob

Pumkinseed

Pumpkinseed, September 2014, Fish of the Month!

A brief note about this family of Fishes: The Sunfish family includes a large number of very North American species. We're including many of them here (in spite of their often small size) because they make excellent warm-water training species for young anglers and because adult warm-water fly-fishers are likely to often take them as incidental catches and would like to know what species they've brought to hand.

Pumpkinseed

Lepomis gibbosus

Local Names:

Sunny, Common sunfish, Kivvy, Kibbie, Yellowbelly, Quiver, Roach, Sunfish, Sun bass, Punky

Average Size:

7 to 8 inches

Distinguishing Field Marks:

(See the illustration.)

Deep almost round body, with a high rounded back.

The head is not large in comparison to the body.

The eye is large and dark colored.

There are pale aqua-blue irregular streaks on the gill covers and cheeks.

The opercular (ear) flaps are relatively short with black interiors bordered by a white outside edge with a short red mark just below the center of the flap. This red mark on the "ear-flap" is a reliable field mark to distinguish this species from the Bluegill.

The mouth is small and tipped upward. The upper jaw extends back only to the front edge of the eye.

The first dorsal fin has 10 spines and is fully attached to the second dorsal.

The tail is slightly forked with rounded lobes.

The anal fin has 3 graduated spines.

The paired pelvic fins have 1 spine and pointed tips.

The pectoral fins are large, nearly transparent, and pointed.

Diet:

Throughout their lives, Pumpkinseeds feed almost exclusively on immature and adult aquatic insects and other invertebrates. They often feed at or near the water's surface.

Biology:

Genus-typical winter aggregations of Pumpkinseed sunfish break up at water temperatures of about 50 degrees F. when mature males move to shallower areas, choose and defend nesting territories, and begin fin-fanning the bottom to open nests that are situated very close together.

Water temperatures in these shallow nesting areas rise quickly inducing spawning that may last from June well into August. With the completion of the nests, females will begin entering the colony and males will rush to them and commence a courtship dance which involves their swimming in circles around and over the female with which they choose to spawn. When the pairs are ready, they begin circling the nest and then the female tips her body, with the male remaining upright, and their vents touching. Small batches of eggs and milt are released and settle into the bottom of the nest. The pair then goes back to circling the nest in preparation for another spawning. This ritual may go on over the course of a day or two. Females may mate with several males and breeding pairs may also spawn over nests which are not their own. The eggs, guarded and aerated by the male parent, incubate for a period of from 3 to 5 days, and the male remains at the nest site, protecting the newly-hatched fry for a short period.

As adults, Pumpkinseeds are found in shallow rocky or weedy areas of lakes, ponds, and slower portions of some streams.

Fly Fishing for Pumpkinseed:

Now widely distributed in the United States and southern Canada, the Pumpkinseed is one of the most frequently caught members of its genus. This colorful, aggressive, hard-fighting species is very willing to take a broad range of small offerings. Wet and dry flies, and small poppers, will all entice Pumpkinseed to strike.

Fly fishing gear in the 3 to 5 weight range is best for handling these fish. As Pumpkinseeds frequently take food at the surface, occasionally gain good size, and are very strong battlers, using their deep slab-sided bodies to their best advantage when hooked, using small foam bodied poppers on a floating line is a very enjoyable sight-fishing approach to taking these rather elegant fish.

Significance to Humans:

One of the most common of our small sunfishes, the Pumpkinseed is an excellent sport fish for its size and is also a fine fish for the table. It is also another of our small sunfishes that can thrive in the habitat of a home aquarium.

Status:

Thriving throughout its broad North American range.

A write up about a local fisherman called Steve Coomer aka OldStinkyGuy by Chris Hampton

All,
 I had the honor of attending a seminar given by Steve Coomer
(OldStinkyGuy) last night. For those of you that may be unfamiliar with
Steve, he is a master angler, photographer, and published author. He has
been fishing the Little Miami and other area streams 3-4 times per week for
the past 40+ years. His presentation was on Fall river fishing for
Smallmouth Bass. 
 Mr. Coomer is a friendly, soft spoken, and modest man. When he
speaks about fishing however, there is no doubt that his words come from a
deep understanding of his quarry. I am sure that most of you know that fish
are on a mission in the fall. That mission is to eat as much as they can
tolerate until the winter sets in and they become essentially dormant until
spring. This "magical time" can last a few days or even a month or so. Steve
explained to us that the smallmouth keys in on the length of day during the
fall to determine when it will begin migrating to the deep, still pockets
and holes where they will spend the winter. This migration will concentrate
upwards of 90% of the larger fish into a very small portion of the available
water. In opening his discussion he placed an emphasis on the slow fishing I
think we are all seeing right now. His assessment of this is based on the
high water temperature and low water conditions of course. During this time
Mr. Coomer says that he spends his time focusing on being prepared when that
"magical time" begins. Starting within a few days before or after the fall
equinox (September 21,22,23 every year) fish will begin to make their move.
As water temps begin to fall into the mid 60s and below (down to around the
low 50s) these feisty beasts become ravenous. Taking in anything that is
thrown at them. 
 Some of the best information presented during the seminar was
Steve's approach to lure selection in different structure. In fast riffles
he chooses minnow imitators in darker colors and smaller sizes. Something in
the 2.5" to 3.5" range was roughly his preference. Using a high sticking
method of up and across stream with little if any retrieve, the minnows will
tumble through the riffle and out much like the forage fish will.
Positioning yourself directly across stream from where you expect the bite
to occur and casting upstream from there was the recommended method. Unlike
the crayfish imitations most of us throw here, the minnow baits should be
kept slightly above the bottom. In order to ensure that the bait is staying
suspended, but flowing naturally, Steve suggested starting with a heavy lure
up to 1/2 oz. or more in some cases. If you find that you are dragging the
bottom, then progressively decreasing weight will allow you to find that
perfect presentation. 
 As you move through the run below a riffle the presenter recommended
shifting your attention higher in the water column to imitate the shiners
that tend to be more present in the slower moving water. Here he selects a
larger, lighter colored minnow bait for the same reason. This is where
things like plugs, and even top water lures are going to come into play. The
approach was a little less specific but, considering the more varied
selection of lure styles, I think trial-and-error may be the only way to key
in on the "best" approach. 
 In either structural environment Steve made it very clear that one
thing is consistent. If the water is in the smallmouth's wheelhouse, they
WILL be feeding constantly. He stressed several times the concept of fish
condensing into smaller areas. Thus if you are throwing the recommended
patterns and you feel your presentation is good, cast 25-30 times covering
an area. If, after doing so, you have not caught anything at all then you
are in the wrong spot. Move to the next riffle upstream or down and begin
again. If you find that you are catching a ton of smaller fish, the choice
is up to you. You can stay and enjoy catching your fill and having a blast
doing it. If, however, you want to find the catch of a lifetime then you
should move again. According to Steve's research and experience the larger
bass won't be feeding with the little guys. They will have taken up
residence among their peers at the best points close to their winter homes.
 After the presentation I had a chance to spend some time talking
with Steve and several other members of the OGF site. I was then invited out
to dinner with these guys and had an incredible time. I must admit, I was a
little out of place in the group, but was made to feel right at home among
them. All-in-all, this was a great experience and one that I will not soon
forget.
 Please understand that I have barely touched the surface of the vast
amount of knowledge presented. More information can be found in Steve's Book
that I believe Rob linked on the website and on Facebook. I will link this
below as well. After the presentation I had a chance to spend some time
talking with Steve and several other members of the OGF site. I was then
invited out to dinner with these guys and had an incredible time. I must
admit, I was a little out of place in the group, but was made to feel right
at home among them. All-in-all, this was a great experience and one that I
will not soon forget.

Hope to see you all on the water soon,
Chris

Orvis Knots

Generally you use simple knots when spin-fishing or bait casting

When you get into Fly fishing sometimes you need special knots to tie on fly line,backing,leaders,tippet and flies

To help with this Orvis has come up with this animated tying tool

Check out this link to help with your knots

Orvis Knots